Happy Black History Month!!! This is our favorite time of the year to blog, a time that we dedicate to researching and writing about iconic Black Americans. This year we are sharing with you Black designers. As designers ourselves, we are always looking to the past for inspiration and this was the perfect time to do some digging to find people who inspire us with our own craft. We hope you enjoy this series and learn something new this month.
Elizabeth Keckly (1818-1907)
When I came across the story of Elizabeth Keckly, it was so
good that I had to share it with you. I hope you feel inspired and learn
something new after reading this.
Elizabeth Keckly was born a slave in 1818 in Virginia, like
many if not all slaves she endured a very hard upbringing. She started caring
for her master's children at just age 4. Imagine that. She was blessed to have a network of
supporters, the talent of dressmaking and determination, this led to her to
being able to buy her freedom for $1200.
With her newfound freedom she moved to Washington, D.C. to start her own
dressmaking business, during this time she connected with first lady Mary Todd
Lincoln.
In 1861, the first lady hired Elizabeth as her personal
modiste. She took on the role as dressmaker, personal dresser and confidante,
the two women became very close, forming a friendship.
1868, Keckly
published an autobiography, Behind the
Scenes: Or, Thirty Years a Slave and Four Years in the White House. I was so
excited to find that it is available at the library, I placed it on hold and
can't wait to read it. The autobiography is a slave narrative and a portrait of
the first family.
There are not many designs that still exist of hers, and even the ones that do exist are hard to connect with Elizabeth. During this time period there were no tags or labels in garments, and because fabric was so expensive, it was very common for dresses to be taken apart and reconstructed to make new dresses. The Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History has a few dresses that belonged to Mary Lincoln, which were most likely made by Elizabeth.
Keckly's design aesthetic was very simple and sophisticated,
which did not compare to many dresses in the Victorian Era. Her designs were
very clean and did not have a lot of lace or ribbon. This was another way
designs could be connected to Keckly, she had a very unique design style for
that era.
Elizabeth was very business savvy, she was able to make friends
with the right people who would support her, this says a lot about her
personality, especially from growing up in such adverse living conditions.
In the African-American community, Elizabeth was seen as a socialite because of her beauty, and for being elegant, upright and appropriate.
I could go on about her life story, but I will end it with this. Working as a dressmaker was the highest paid position for a woman during that time, Keckly's dresses were expensive and the envy of women in Washington. So just imagine the amount of money she was making, I would consider her one of the first successful African American designers. She has truly paved the way for those of us that have careers in the fashion industry.
Thank you Miss Keckly! We honor you for all that you have done to pave the way for current designers.
Be Blessed! Be Free! Be Fashionable!
~Chris
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